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The seven ‘thorns’ of viniculture
Looking into the Cypriot wine, one easily realizes that it suffers at its base. When someone is in position to examine all aspects of the Cypriot wine without any fanfares and sentimentalism, he cannot but realize the huge problem of vinicultural substructure it faces.
Despite the unquestionable wine improvement that has been achieved in the last few years through the technological upgrading, the improved vinification and the more careful selection of grapes by many
winemaking units, the situation in the vinicultural sector remains unchanged. This means that there is not much room for further improvement of the local wine. What is required from now on is a modern vineyard, something that does not exist for the time being. I maintain the view that we have raised the quality of the Cypriot wine to a good level in comparison to the one that it had in the past. However, in order to make a real difference, one that will transform the Cypriot wine from a regular to an excellent one, we have to invest in the vineyards without any further delay.
The course towards the development of the Cypriot vineyard has many ‘thorns’. Whoever tries to enter our vinicultural jungle to open a path, it is certain that will suffer deep excoriations. Nevertheless, if he succeeds, the route towards the quality upgrade will be a journey without return.
Allotment of land
Big obstacle for someone who tries to develop a modern vineyard on the island is the allotment of land. Anyone who wants to create an efficient vineyard in Cyprus must find a location of an altitude above 1000 meters with an exception of some areas (ex. Kathikas) which can give a quality fruit at somehow lower altitude. When we are talking about such altitudes (above 1000 meters), we refer to areas such as Pitsilia,Vouni Panayias etc., where the lot is incredibly cut into pieces as a hectare could belong to 10-20 people! The value of the land in these areas is usually small, thus, no one decides to sell his own share inherited by his grandfather or father. On the other hand, no wine maker is willing to offer many times more the real value in order to tempt the owner, as his investment will fail due to its overwhelming cost. You realize then how difficult is the creation of a satisfying size vineyard that will respond to the model of a modern European vineyard. This vicious cycle contributes to the inability of the Cypriot wine makers to secure their own piece of land, an inability that forms an obstacle to the development of a vinicultural substructure.
Land inclination, high cost of cultivation
Even when a wine maker manages to acquire a piece of land for the creation of his own vineyard, things remain difficult due to the high cost of cultivation in comparison to most vine areas of abroad. The steep slopes at the aforementioned altitudes together with the general morphology of the site impedes the mechanization of cultivation, increases tremendously the productive cost. Inevitably, the Cypriot wine has relative disadvantage with regard to the selling price in comparison to most foreign wines, whose vinification depends on the abundant in space vine areas with mild or no inclination and extended mechanization of the cultivation and harvest of the grapes.
Inadequate local vine varieties
We could overcome the high cost of production if we invested in the uniqueness of the wine product of the island. If we vinified most Cypriot wines using native varieties of high quality, we could increase their possibilities for commercial success. Unfortunately, in this sector we do not seem to be particularly gifted. Apart from the interesting, but not special Xynisteri and the rather decayed and imperishable Maratheftiko, we do not seem to have much to offer. However, there are solutions.
Lack of vine experts
Quality vines without a vine expert are not comprehended anywhere else but in Cyprus. A modern vineyard is planted after a systematic research of a viticulturalist with specialty in viniculture, planting density, vine formation method and so on. This scientist is also responsible for giving directions regarding the cultivation of vines, when and how much we should water, fertilize, defoliate, trim, weed, plough and the like. It is imperative, thus, to employ viniculture advisors if we wish to see our vines flourishing in quality and perspectives.
Lack of research in viniculture
Unfortunately, the biggest thorn in the route for the upgrading of viniculture remains the total lack of vinicultural research, whose results would enlighten the viticultural community of the island and answer to the tens of important questions that remain unanswered for decades now. The responsibility of the department of viniculture and oenology is serious in this matter, since it failed to respond to its most substantial role, which is nothing more than the research and guidance of the vine issues of the country.
Lack of vision
Above all, above every difficulty we encounter in our effort to build a sound vinicultural substructure that will be able to respond to the quality demands of our days, is the lack of vision, the lack of faith in our powers, the ubiquitous amateurishness and the pursuit of quick and easy solutions with temporary profit in restricted and dim horizon. A lot are required in order to see the Cypriot wine to ascent the quality lane, but above all it requires daring, realism, vision and a bit of insanity!
24/04/2006
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