Fortunately, you exist as well!

In a time when the universal domination of cosmopolitan vine varieties started to weary, pushing all wine lovers to look for new, unprecedented flavours, each vine growing and wine producing country puts all its efforts in the vinification and promotion of its native varieties.

Unavoidably, Cyprus sees the clear, unquestionable necessity to turn to its own native varieties. The question, though, that is raised is hard, almost relentless. Which are those varieties that could push the country forth in the wine world?

We should immediately reject the local Mavro, since by general confession is not in position to offer any worthy results. What remains then if we dismiss the much-advertised Maratheftiko for reasons that I will give in the next annotation? Would you say the rare rather than of true worth Spourtiko, Canella, Morakanella and Promara, varieties that are cultivated in extremely limited areas in experimental rather than struggling vineyards?   

It remains, therefore, Xynisteri, a very interesting white variety with unexplored still possibilities. A variety that can sustain the production of quality white wine, one with unique aroma and fine, fruity and balanced taste. The authenticity of Cypriot wines is based almost exclusively on this variety, if we take into account that Xynisteri is the grape that forms the backbone even of Commandaria.

The more I occupy myself with Cypriot wines, the more I realize that in our country only one white variety should be cultivated by law, that of Xynisteri. I believe, given the size of the country, that only with Xynisteri we could claim one day a small place in the international wine export market. However, in order to achieve this, we should dispose a crucial mass of vineyards and production. Producing 1-2 million of varietal wines, half of which are of medium or worse quality, we cannot establish abroad a firm and desirable image of the above-mentioned wine.

Tasting the Xynisteri of different wineries of the island, I was happy to see a significant improvement in its quality. I saw producers, who until recently were devoted to producing low alcohol wines (10-11%) of this variety, to make wine from more ripe grapes. I saw medium quality Xynisteri wines to improve considerably by selecting better grapes and using new to the country vinification techniques like the cold extraction. I tasted again the one and only wine of this variety that matures partly in oak barrels and I was astonished by the amazing improvement that it had after five years in the bottle.

I am looking forward to the moment when some local producer will make a varietal wine from old vines, 80-100 years old vineyards that exist in some villages. I am anxiously waiting for the moment when some local producer will decide to ferment in oak barrels these old vines or the moment when some wine producer will decide to decrease the yield to 300 or 400 kilos with the intention of concentrating the fruit.

Really, how well do we know Xynisteri?

20/09/2009